blood orange | breakfast | condiments | curd | desserts | dip/salsa/spread | fruit | gluten-free | orange | quick & easy | seasonal

My bloody valentine.

February 10, 2013

Listen, I know I’ve been overloading you with cutesy, Valentine-y stuff lately. I know that. I don’t really care if you like it or not, though, sorry to say. Because I love it. I actually get more pissed at the people who bitch constantly about how much they hate Valentine’s Day than I do about seeing the hearts & candies in the stores starting on New Years Eve. If it really bothers you so much, pretend it doesn’t exist. Go celebrate something else like Chinese New Year or Mardi Gras & stop complaining. Just ignore it. Football bothers me- but I understand there’s some kind of sick obsession with it in this country so I just ignore it. Which is hard, because it’s everywhere, but I manage. If you like it, then good for you. I just don’t, so I spend my winter Sunday’s baking, cooking, blasting punk rock music or watching things like Inglorious Basterds instead of watching grown men in tight pants tackle one another in hopes of not becoming the next paraplegic on the news. I spent Super Bowl Sunday shopping, then eating homemade nachos supreme & watching Downton Abbey. Now, I don’t tell everyone else not to watch it. I don’t constantly spout off about how awful & boring I find it all day, every day. I just get on with my life. Just like the Valentine’s Day haters should do.

However… I do understand that if there was a blog that I read fairly regularly that posted non-stop football crap for a month I’d be tired of it & maybe a little bit turned off.

So today I’m here to make amends. I’m posting something that’s still appropriate, but yet not quite as overtly dyed-pink & cheerful & cheeky as heart cupcakes or rose tarts: blood orange curd. There’s a special place in my heart for blood oranges.

And I’ll tell you why: Blood oranges are like the citrus family’s dark secret; like the black sheep cousin of the Navel orange, you know the one… who hangs out in a dark room, smokes cloves & listens to death metal.

And that’s sorta something I relate to. Not that I’m a black sheep per se, not within my family so much. Yeah, I’m different… but I was always accepted & appreciated. However when you’re the Agnostic punk rock short-haired bleached blonde Catholic school girl who tells your Theology teacher (a nun) that you’re pro-euthanasia & don’t quite understand why women can’t be priests, there is some level of that, somewhere. In my uniform I (sorta) looked like anyone else in school… until after school, or until you looked closely and saw the Sharpie-written lyrics on my blazer, my spike collars and dog collars, safety pins in my ears, my too-many-earrings-according-to-the-student-handbook and numerous band patches & pins on my backpack. And so I relate to that metaphor, and the blood orange. It’s sinister bloody-colored inside is almost concealed by the bright orange skin, it almost tricks you into thinking it’s just like any other orange. Maybe one that’s a bit overripe? And then you slice it- BAM! Deep, dark red flesh and a juice to match. There’s a reason they use a blood orange (not a regular orange) in the opening sequence of Dexter.

They’re right up my alley, truthfully.

And they’re also perfect for Valentine’s Day.

Conveniently, they’re in season right now. And if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on a few, well then you better make good use of them. They make beautiful marmalades, gorgeous cupcakes, they’re beautiful when candied. And of course, when made into a curd, it’s a lovely pink color… which is perfect for a Valentine’s Day breakfast. It elevates your average toast to something spectacular. (heart shaped toast or English muffins not required!)

Or use it for dessert. When used as a topping for vanilla or chocolate ice cream- or even yogurt, it’s amazing. Another idea? Make it into a tart. Or using an ice cream maker, swirl it into plain homemade frozen yogurt for blood orange yogurt. It makes an amazing cake or cupcake filling too.

When you’re picking the oranges, be sure to pick ones that aren’t bright orange. The outside color is usually indicative of the color of the flesh & juice, so pick one that has a darker flesh, or even a mottled orangey-red flesh. That way you’re assured a deep burgundy flesh, and juice, and therefore a bright pinky red curd. My oranges were Moro, so they actually have a darker flesh & stronger flavor anyway, but I picked middle of the range ones that weren’t too dark, but weren’t too light. Actually the outer skin of all of mine were bright orange on one side, and a deep red on the other. I could’ve gotten ones that were so dark maroon on the outside they looked almost alien. In retrospect, I should have!

The thing that’s great about this recipe is that it doesn’t use so many egg yolks that you end up with an orange-colored curd. Orange colored curd is great, if it’s plain orange curd. But blood orange curd calls for a reddish color, doesn’t it? At the very least, a pretty rosy pink, like mine. But if you choose darker oranges you can really achieve a really bright pinkish red curd.

Also… listen up. Curd is a terrible word. Let’s be honest. Everyone hates it, from chefs to home cooks to pastry chefs to bloggers. It’s horrible to say, it rhymes with turd and it turns people off completely from trying it. Although, in Southern America they call lemon curd “lemon cheese”… and as far as I’m concerned that’s not much better than curd. But I hope that doesn’t put you off from trying it. It really is something else. But here’s the deal: curd isn’t disgusting. I swear. It’s basically similar to a lemon meringue pie filling, or in this case substitute blood orange for lemon. It’s like a creamy, citrus custard. Like a citrus pudding, kind of.

BLOOD ORANGE CURD (adapted from Local Kitchen who adapted it from Rose Levy Beranbaum)

Makes slightly over 1 cup (8 oz.), it can be doubled

Ingredients:

  • 3 medium to large blood oranges, scrubbed clean and dried
  • 1 large egg and one large egg yolk
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • a pinch of salt

Directions:

  1. Zest enough of the oranges so you end up with roughly 1 1/2 teaspoons of finely grated zest. Set aside in a medium bowl.
  2. Juice the blood oranges, making sure to get every last bit out of them! Strain the juice to get out any pulpy bits or miscellaneous sneaky seeds. In a medium saucepan, over low heat, reduce the juice to 1/2 cup and set aside to cool in a measuring cup. Be sure to stir often while it’s reducing to avoid scorching.
  3. Rinse out the saucepan and place the sugar, eggs and salt in it. Whisk them together. Add the butter and slowly whisk in the reduced orange juice.
  4. Cook the mixture over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes together and is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon (roughly 15-20 minutes for me).
  5. Once thickened, strain the curd into the bowl with the zest in it. Then stir the zest into the curd to incorporate. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the curd into a clean jar. Allow to cool and store in the refrigerator for a week or so.

Here’s a secret: if ALL you’ve got is a 1/2 cup of blood orange juice, you can just use that without the reduction. It’ll still work. It won’t be as concentrated, and the color probably won’t be as amazing… but the basic product will be successful. And best of all? EDIBLE! And some people don’t like zest in their curd. I know this, but the point of the zest is to impart even more flavor & the scent of the fruit to the curd. However if you’re one of those people, I’d add the zest into the mixture while it’s cooking then strain it out. That’s a matter of personal preference, of course.

Some people have trouble with curd. I never have- it’s always come together relatively quickly & easily for me, regardless of  whatever the recipe, or whatever source it’s from. If you have trouble, and it fails, rest assured you are not the first & will not be the last. But also don’t give up! If it scorches or it doesn’t thicken, etc, these are all just steps on a ladder. Learning the way. I know it sucks to waste materials, especially if blood oranges are really hard to find near you. But you’ll get it, I promise. Maybe try it out first with a plain lemon curd; those are cheaper and easier to find.

The recipe above made one cup, or 8 ounces, of curd. You might want to double it if you’re thinking of using it for a cake filling or a large tart filling. But I find one jar is perfect for a slow, sweet, laid-back breakfast.

Enjoy your Valentine’s morning with a little burst of pink sunshine, for you & your bloody valentine. (hey! that rhymed!)

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  1. Ok I’m going to have to try this. My mom would love it. But I may be bugging you from time to time, just to make sure that I’m not screwing anything up, LOL! I’ve never tried to make a curd, but I’ve wanted to try for awhile. That and canning, which totally scares the crap out of me 😀

  2. As a K-12 Catholic school survivor with many tattoos, ever-changing haircolor and a love of all sorts of odd music . . . I can appreciate your love of the odd orange. I am definitely trying this! (PS – I am now torturing my children with Catholic school . . . but the nuns know me well enough outside of school to appreciate me and my odd children).

    Always love your recipes!

    ~Jen

  3. Hey M,

    You’ll never guess what has happened to me. I’m allergic to gluten! I KNOW! What?! I know. Sigh…

    The doctor’s put me on the Paleo diet. For health reasons. So now, because I want to live and all, I’m figuring out how to live without gluten, sugar, dairy and grains. And you know how I love me some sugar and grains!

    But here’s the thing. There are things that I’m learning to do, like to use coconut flour instead of wheat flour. Or to use ground up dates instead of sugar. In fact, the other day I made a delicious chocolate cake out of ground up dates, coconut flour, eggs, bananas and cocoa with a frosting of avocado, cocoa and honey. It was very good, you’d be surprised.

    Well, anyway, this is to explain to you why I haven’t commented on any of your recipes lately. I figured you might have wondered where I have gone. I’ve gone looking for Paleo baking ideas because you know how much I love to bake!

    But still, I had to come visit because you know how much I admire your blog and when I saw your beautiful Valentine recipes, (I proclaim to the world that Valentine’s Day is my favorite holiday of all time and I keep hearts and flowers around me all year round and I don’t care what anyone else thinks because love is in style every day of the year!) especially this blood orange curd, I thought, maybe I could convert this. I can have eggs. So that’s good. And butter. No problem with that. And certainly oranges. But the sugar? No. How do you think it would be if I tried this with honey? I thought about ground dates, but that would interfere too much with the flavor of the oranges. Do you think honey would yield a similar consistency to sugar? Or? I don’t know. Stevia? I can have that. But I’d only add maybe a half teaspoon or less to sweeten the whole batch and that might interfere with the consistency of the curd, as well.

    Let me know your best guess. Otherwise, I’m doing great, M. I’m losing weight and getting my blood levels back into line. No worries, no worries.

    Sincerely,
    Pola

  4. Kate- feel free to come back & bother me anytime! 😉

    Jen- high five! And thank you 🙂 Enjoy the curd!

    Pola- I AM SO GLAD YOU COMMENTED! I’ve been wondering where you went! I was going to e-mail you, but I didn’t want to be intrusive. I was just talking about you the other day, and I mentioned I hadn’t seen you around. I’m so sorry to hear about your recent health problems. I can’t imagine how difficult it is to eat that way! As far as the curd, I don’t think you can use honey. If you did use Stevia, you’d probably have to use the exact amount as you would sugar. I’m not an expert on that kind of cooking, though, so perhaps you’d be better off with a Google search? I’m thinking the mixture needs that sugar to form the custardy substance. But again I don’t know for sure.

    However I’m really glad you’re okay! And I’m so glad you came back to say hi. Keep me updated, please!

  5. Hi Marilla,

    I know you’ll find this hard to believe, but it isn’t at all hard to eat this way. The only hard thing was to get started. I really think now that I am truly allergic to gluten because eating gluten-free came as easy to me as falling off a log. I’m not exaggerating. It’s the first diet I’ve ever been on that I have ever truly been comfortable with, and that includes eating whatever I wanted. And now my health problems are reversing themselves, which is a dream come true for most Americans of a certain age, of which I am becoming one. 🙂 I will keep you posted, Marilla!

    About the curd, after giving it some thought, I believe I will try it by using about half a teaspoon (maybe less) of stevia and adding an extra egg yolk and see if that helps keep the consistency curd-like. I can tell this is going to be good. I will eat it on my latest recipe acquisition, grainless bread (made with coconut flour, almond flour, flax seed meal, coconut milk and eggs), which believe it or not is quite cake-like and buttery in consistency and will make a nice platform for our lovely blood orange curd.

    Now, to find some blood oranges!

    Keep ’em coming, Marilla. I love your recipes and ideas.

    Sincerely,
    Pola

  6. I’m really, really glad it’s working out for you. Truly. I wish you nothing but good health & happiness! 😀 And let me know about the curd, too. I’d be interested to see how it works out.

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